Adventures at the World's Most Isolated Airport: My Journey to St. Helena
Join me as I recount my unforgettable journey to St. Helena, the world's most isolated airport. From childhood dreams sparked by a television show to the reality of getting stranded due to unexpected weather, this trip was filled with adventure, challenges, and breathtaking views.
Introduction to St. Helena
St. Helena is a remote British Overseas Territory located in the South Atlantic Ocean. Famous for its isolation, the island is over 1,400 miles from the nearest continental landmass, making it one of the most secluded places on Earth. With a land area of just 47 square miles, it is roughly a third of the size of the Isle of Wight and comparable to the size of Disney World in Orlando.
The island is characterized by its rugged terrain, dramatic cliffs, and stunning ocean views. Its capital, Jamestown, is a charming settlement nestled in a steep valley. St. Helena's history is rich and fascinating, known for being the final place of exile for Napoleon Bonaparte, who spent the last years of his life here. Today, the island is a unique blend of history, culture, and natural beauty, attracting adventurous travelers eager to explore its mysteries.
The Inspiration Behind the Journey
My passion for St. Helena began in childhood, sparked by a memorable episode of the British children's program, Blue Peter. The show featured the island's isolation and beauty, igniting a lifelong dream to visit this unique destination. Growing up in the UK, I was captivated by the stories of remote places, and St. Helena stood out as a symbol of adventure.
Years later, in 2016, my dream became a reality when an airport was constructed on the island, offering regular flights for the first time in history. This development opened the door for travelers like me to finally experience the wonders of St. Helena without the arduous journey by sea.
Personal Connection
Visiting St. Helena wasn't just about ticking off a bucket list item; it was a personal journey, fulfilling a childhood dream. I remember watching that Blue Peter episode and feeling a strange connection to a place so distant and mysterious. Now, as I prepare for my trip, I feel a mix of excitement and nostalgia.
The New Airport: A Game Changer
The opening of the new airport on St. Helena in 2016 was a significant milestone for the island. Previously, the only way to reach the island was by a five-day mail ship from Cape Town. The airport has transformed travel to this remote destination, allowing for weekly flights and making it more accessible for tourists and locals alike.
The airport not only serves as a gateway for travelers but also plays a crucial role in the economy of St. Helena. It facilitates the transport of goods, medical supplies, and essential services, greatly improving the quality of life for the island's residents.
Flight Experience
Flying to St. Helena is an adventure in itself. The journey typically involves a stopover in Walvis Bay, Namibia, for refueling. The flight experience offers stunning views of the Atlantic Ocean and the chance to connect with fellow travelers who share a passion for exploration.
Preparing for Takeoff from Johannesburg
My journey began at O.R. Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, South Africa. As I arrived at the bustling airport, I felt the thrill of anticipation. This was the start of a long-awaited adventure to a place that had captured my imagination for years.
Checking in with Airlink, the airline operating the flight to St. Helena, was straightforward. The staff was friendly and helpful, eager to assist with any questions about the journey ahead.
As I boarded the Embraer aircraft, I couldn't help but feel a sense of excitement. The cabin was cozy, and I settled into my seat, ready for the adventure ahead.
First Leg: Johannesburg to Walvis Bay
The first leg of the journey was approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes long, taking us from Johannesburg to Walvis Bay, Namibia. The flight was smooth, and I took the opportunity to enjoy the views of the African landscape below.
There was a light snack service, and I appreciated the complimentary drinks offered during the flight.
As we approached Walvis Bay, the scenery transformed into the stunning coastal landscape of Namibia. The Skeleton Coast, known for its dramatic beauty, was a sight to behold as we descended toward the small airbase.
Arrival in Walvis Bay
The stopover was brief but essential, as the aircraft needed to refuel for the next leg of the journey to St. Helena.
I watched as the ground crew filled the tanks of our aircraft, ensuring we had enough fuel for the next leg of our journey over the vast Atlantic Ocean.
During the stop, I took the opportunity to chat with fellow passengers, many of whom were equally excited about visiting St. Helena. The sense of camaraderie among travelers heading to such a remote location added to the adventure.
As we prepared to depart again, I felt a renewed sense of excitement. We were not just flying to any destination; we were heading to a place that few people ever get to experience. With our tanks full and spirits high, we were ready for the next leg of the journey.
The Long Flight Over the Atlantic
As we settled into our seats, the excitement of the journey ahead began to wane, making way for the reality of a long flight. The aircraft, an Embraer 190, was designed for regional hops, meaning amenities were minimal. Without Wi-Fi or in-flight entertainment, the flight felt a bit tedious. My advice? Bring a good book or download some shows before you go.
Despite the discomfort, I couldn't help but appreciate how much easier it was compared to the five-day boat journey that travelers once had to endure to reach St. Helena. Sipping a warm cup of coffee, I gazed out at the endless blue of the Atlantic Ocean. The clouds began to break, revealing my first glimpse of St. Helena in the distance, a sight that reignited my excitement.
Descent into St. Helena
As we began our descent, the anticipation in the cabin was palpable. The pilots informed us that we were about 10 to 15 minutes away from landing, but the winds were strong. It was an exhilarating feeling, knowing we were approaching one of the most isolated airports in the world.
The view from the window was stunning. The island’s rugged cliffs and volcanic landscape came into focus, making the landing approach a breathtaking spectacle. I could hardly believe I was finally landing on this remote island I'd dreamed of visiting.
Arrival at St. Helena Airport
Touchdown! We safely landed at St. Helena Airport, a remarkable achievement given the island's challenging geography. The airport, carved into volcanic rock, felt like a marvel against the backdrop of the ocean.
As we disembarked, I was struck by the uniqueness of the location. It felt surreal to finally be here after so many years of dreaming. The airport staff greeted us warmly, making the transition from the aircraft to the terminal seamless.
Customs and Entry
Upon entering the terminal, I filled out the necessary customs forms. The process was straightforward, and the staff were helpful, ensuring everyone felt at ease. There was a small landing fee to pay, but it was all part of the experience.
After clearing customs, I was ready to head into Jamestown, the island’s capital. The excitement of exploring this remote destination was mounting as I waited for my ride.
As I waited, the aircraft took off to it’s next destination - the British military base at Ascension Island, where it transports contractors for the RAF before spending the night there, and flying back to St Helena the next day.
Exploring Jamestown: The Capital
The journey from the airport to Jamestown was an adventure in itself. The winding roads offered stunning views of the island's diverse landscapes, from volcanic rock formations to lush greenery. It was a thrilling ride as we navigated the narrow, winding roads.
As we approached Jamestown, I was struck by its quaint charm. The village felt like a slice of England, complete with British-style pubs and shops. The architecture reflected a rich history, and I couldn't help but feel a sense of nostalgia.
First Impressions of Jamestown
Upon arriving in Jamestown, I checked into the Mantis Hotel, which was nestled in a valley. The hotel exuded a cozy atmosphere, echoing the charm of the island itself. I quickly settled into my room, appreciating the blend of modern comforts with historical touches.
Stepping outside, I felt as though I had entered a different era. The streets were lined with British-style buildings, and every corner held a piece of history. The community was small, and the warmth of the locals made me feel right at home.
Unexpected Stranding: Flight Cancellations
Just as I was settling into the rhythm of island life, news broke of unexpected flight cancellations due to weather conditions. This revelation sent a wave of uncertainty through my plans. With only one flight a week, the implications were significant.
I quickly learned the importance of flexibility when traveling to such remote destinations. Conversations with fellow travelers revealed that many were in the same predicament, sharing stories of their travel experiences and plans.
Despite the unexpected changes, the locals were incredibly accommodating, offering advice on how to make the most of my extended stay. I was determined to embrace the adventure, eager to explore more of what St. Helena had to offer.
The Challenges of St. Helena's Weather
St. Helena’s weather can be quite unpredictable, particularly due to its isolated location in the South Atlantic Ocean. The island is often subjected to strong winds and low cloud cover, which can severely impact flight schedules.
On days like these, the challenges become evident. With the airport perched high above sea level, planes require a minimum cloud base of 2,000 feet to safely land. Unfortunately, when clouds roll in, it can lead to flight cancellations, as was the case during my stay.
Moreover, the winds can reach gusts of up to 60 knots, making landings particularly challenging. The nearest alternative airport is over 1,400 miles away, leaving pilots with little option but to wait it out until conditions improve.
Impact on Travel Plans
Travelers to St. Helena must be prepared for these weather-related disruptions. It’s advisable to have flexible itineraries and to stay informed about the forecast. This was a lesson I learned firsthand when my flight was canceled unexpectedly.
Despite the challenges, the locals are incredibly accommodating. They are well-versed in managing the logistics of travel disruptions, ensuring that visitors are informed and taken care of.
A Day of Relaxation and Reflection
With an unexpected extra day on the island, I decided to embrace the situation and explore more of what St. Helena had to offer. After all, having a day to relax in such a beautiful place felt like a gift.
I started my day with a leisurely breakfast at the hotel, enjoying locally grown St. Helena coffee, reputed to be some of the purest in the world. The rich flavor was a perfect companion to the stunning views.
Exploring the Island
After breakfast, I took a stroll around Jamestown, soaking in the unique atmosphere. The charming streets and friendly locals made it easy to forget about my travel woes.
Final Preparations for Departure
As my extra day came to an end, I began preparing for my departure. The travel office had successfully rebooked my flight, and I was hopeful about finally leaving St. Helena.
On the morning of my departure, I checked the weather again. The winds were still strong, but there were no immediate notifications of further cancellations. I felt a mix of excitement and nervousness as I packed my bags.
Heading Back to the Airport
The hotel arranged transportation for me back to the airport, and I was filled with anticipation. The drive offered one last chance to appreciate the island's breathtaking landscapes.
Upon arrival at the airport, I could sense the collective hope among travelers. Everyone was eager to see if the flight would indeed take off as scheduled.
The Journey Back to Johannesburg
After what felt like an eternity of waiting, the announcement finally came that our flight was on its way from Ascension. The relief was palpable, and I felt a surge of excitement for the journey ahead.
The airport at St Helena has a small departure lounge, and even a small business class lounge, albeit with nothing other than a few seats away from the noise of the main lounge.
I waited anxiously to see if the flight would make it into the airport. If it aborted its landing, we could be stuck here for another 24 hours. Finally, a welcome sight as the AirLink E190 touched down and taxied in to the terminal. I was heading back to Johannesburg.
Boarding was smooth, and as we settled into our seats, I couldn’t help but reflect on my time on the island. The memories of the stunning landscapes, warm locals, and unique experiences flooded back.
The Flight Experience
The flight back to Johannesburg was a direct journey. With no stops for refueling, we were able to enjoy the flight uninterrupted. The cabin crew was friendly, making the experience pleasant as we soared over the Atlantic.
As we approached the African coastline, I felt a mix of nostalgia and gratitude. St. Helena had been an adventure of a lifetime, and I was thankful for the unexpected extra day that allowed me to explore even more of this remote paradise.
Conclusion: Reflections on the Adventure
My journey to St. Helena was filled with unexpected twists and turns, yet it was a remarkable experience that exceeded my expectations. The island's beauty, combined with the warmth of its community, made every moment worthwhile.
Though I encountered challenges with flight cancellations, the adventure taught me the importance of flexibility and embracing the unexpected. Sometimes, the best memories come from the moments we didn't plan for.
As I settled back into my routine after returning to Johannesburg, I carried with me the spirit of St. Helena—a place that will always hold a special place in my heart. I encourage fellow travelers to consider this incredible destination; it truly is a bucket-list experience.